Journal

Let's Talk About Know How

Our Know-How

The creation of our jewelry is the result of an ancestral know-how that was about to be lost. Enriched by our skills, our experiences but also our desires and our emotions, we have decided to reinterpret this know-how. This technique is unique to us and reimagined by each of our artisans that we train in our Parisian workshop. .

The uniqueness of our art is based on an intimate collaboration with our customers, who become creators of their own jewelry by customizing them. We make our creations from a precious metal wire. These noble materials are chosen for their ability to reflect light and their durability.

It can be difficult for a novice to find his way around the diversity of precious metals that can be found in the world of jewelry. In order to help you, to best choose your jewelry at Atelier Paulin, we take you through and enlighten on the different materials we use.

Atelier Paulin offers jewelry in 18-carat gold wire, 14-carat gold filled wire or 9-carat yellow, pink, white and silver colour and makes twisted, smooth or chiselled jewelry.

                  

History of Gold;

To begin with, it should be known that gold is a very ancient material, exploitable since more than five thousand years before Christ. Because of its rarity and durability, men have transformed it into a prestigious metal.

In order to make a more distinct difference between the different golds, the notion of "carat" was invented in England in the 14th century to facilitate the use of gold in trade.  Nevertheless, a carat was initially a unit of weight based on the locust bean seed used in the Middle East. The carat characterizes the unit of measurement (ct / k / kt) used to determine the purity of precious metals, especially gold. Today, in France, there are mainly 18-, 14- and 9-carat gold jewelry, but some countries such as the USA use 10-carat gold instead of 9-carat gold.

What does Gold look like ?

Gold (Au) is a special and unique raw material because it is the only material produced to be accumulated and not produced to be consumed like other materials. As a result, gold is a rare, noble and precious material.

It is the only metal with a natural matte bright yellow colour.  This bright yellow metal is soft, ductile and malleable. As a result, it has a high capacity to deform without breaking. In addition, it remains intact and stable in contact with water or air. One of the most valuable properties of gold is its high chemical resistance. This is why gold is the most "noble" of the whole group of precious metals.





For various reasons, gold can be mixed with other metals to modify certain characteristics such as its rigidity or colour. According to these mixtures, the gold is more or less pure.  Thus, the higher the number of carats, the higher the proportion of gold in relation to the alloy.

Pure Gold;

Pure gold is 24-carat or 999 thousandths gold and is composed of at least 99.9% pure gold. Indeed, 100% pure gold does not exist. However, 24-carat gold is hardly exploited in the jewelry world because it is too soft and therefore easily deformable to be worked. As a result, the jewelry that we can find in 24-carat gold was not originally intended to be worn every day.

It is generally used for the manufacture of gold bullion. The hallmark of pure gold is a hippocampus facing to the right. With industrial evolution, techniques have developed to make it harder by adding other metals such as copper, silver and zinc, creating an alloy.


18K Gold;

 

18-carat gold (also called 750 thousandths gold) is a very fine quality gold traditionally used in jewelry. It thus represents the ideal balance between the quantity of pure gold (75%) and other metals (25% silver or copper) because it allows it to be worked while preserving the stainless and non-allergenic qualities of the metal. It contains 18 parts pure gold to 6 parts alloy.

Combining high gold purity and strength, it can be passed on from generation to generation. All our 18K products are subject to a title control, and contain a legal stamp, an eagle. It is preferable to wear 18-carat jewelry for people allergic to nickel.



  

14 carat Goldfilled gold;

 

There is a less expensive alternative to solid gold but also more common, it is 14K gold-filled (or filled gold). Referred to as a "gold alloy", it contains 58.5% pure gold or 585 thousandths compared to 41.5% of other metals. It is therefore composed of 14 parts gold and 10 parts other metals, most often silver or copper, or zinc or nickel.

Its characteristics are similar to pure gold, such as its colour or durability. This high quality gold treatment called gold filled is widely used in the USA. This treatment consists of applying a thick layer of 14-carat gold to a brass or copper base. To have the Gold Filled designation, the weight of the gold must correspond to 1/20th of the total weight of the product. Since 1994, 14-carat gold has had a hallmark representing a scallop shell. Be careful, the latter is not considered to be made of gold but made of a gold alloy.

9 carat Gold 

Due to its alloy, 9-carat gold or 375 thousandths is harder than 18-carat gold but is less resistant to impact and more sensitive to chemicals. It is not considered as solid gold and is generally referred to as a "gold alloy" since it contains only 37.5% pure gold compared to 62.5% of other metals. The proportions of the alloy also influence the yellow colour of the gold: the 9 carats will necessarily be less brilliant and less solar. Since 1994, 9-carat gold has had a characteristic stamp represented by a clover surrounded by a scroll. We use 9 carat gold for the children's range.

White Gold;

White gold is an alloy of fine gold, pure yellow gold and other metals, such as palladium, zinc and copper, to harden the alloy. White gold therefore has a greyish hue in its natural state that is similar to that of silver. To give it its final bright and clear colour, white gold is covered with a thin layer of a rare metal, rhodium. This rhodium plating and the metals added to the gold give the jewellery a white / grey colour. White gold exists in 18K, 14K and 9K

Pink Gold;

Pink gold, like yellow gold or white gold, is a mixture of fine gold, pure yellow gold and other materials such as copper and silver. Copper is at the origin of its pink colour. Moreover, depending on the percentage of copper present in the alloy, the pink colour will be more or less intense. Due to its elegant and feminine colour, but also its softness and originality, pink gold is becoming more and more popular.

Like yellow and white gold, pink gold is available in 18K, 14K and 9K. Moreover, it is as resistant as yellow gold, it never loses its colour.

Our fifth precious metal used to create our jewelry, argentium.

Silver 935 is part of the silver family, also known as solid silver, is a 93.5% alloy of pure silver and other metals, usually copper.

The traditional 935 silver alloy (Argentium Silver) is modified by removing some of the copper and adding the germanium metalloid. Thus, it is more resistant and durable than traditional 925 silver. Argentium is known for its hardness and superior durability. Easily handled in its softened state, argentium is an ideal metal for creating different shapes of jewellery. Silver alloys do not contain nickel, making them hypoallergenic. To better preserve silver jewellery, it is strongly recommended to wear it often, as contact with human skin produces a chemical effect that prevents the jewellery from turning black and maintaining its primary glow.

Notre cinquième fil précieux utilisé pour la création de nos bijoux, l’argentium : 

L'argentium 935 fait partie de la famille de l’argent, également appelé argent massif,  est un alliage de 93,5 % d’argent pur et d’autres métaux, généralement du cuivre.

L'alliage d’argent 935 (Argentium Silver) traditionnel est modifié en enlevant une partie du cuivre et en ajoutant le métalloïde germanium. Ainsi, il est plus résistant et plus durable que l’argent traditionnel 925. L’argentium est connu pour sa dureté et sa durabilité supérieure. Facilement manipulable dans son état ramolli, l’argentium est un métal idéal pour créer différentes formes de bijoux. Les alliages en argentium ne contiennent pas de nickel, ce qui en fait un métal hypoallergénique. Pour mieux conserver les bijoux en argentium, il est fortement recommandé de les porter souvent, car le contact avec la peau humaine produit un effet chimique permettant de ne pas faire noircir le bijou et de garder son éclat primaire.

You can find all our jewellery on our Eshop. It's up to you to choose your favorite jewel....

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